This post will give a clear idea about how to press different areas of a garment (The whole pressing technique). And this is must know because this is an important part of Under Pressing. If you don’t know this, you will mess up at the very first stage of the pressing. And if this goes smooth then congratulation, you did pressing properly.
Technique of Pressing
Here you will learn how to press different parts of your project. You need to follow this while under pressing.
1. Seam Pressing
After you complete sewing a seam, you need to press it. If you press a newly stitched seam it will set the seam with the fabric. The seam will look sharper and neater.
2. Seam Allowances
Use enough steam to press the seam allowances. Hold the press down onto the stitch. Lift and repeat the procedure for the stitch line. Remember if the fabric is lightweight, then you can make a close seam press to one side. To do so press the newly stitched seam then hold the seam to stay on one side while pressing it. But if the fabric is heavyweight, then press the open seam. To do so, first press the newly stitched seam and then open it with one hand and press it on that side. Use the pointed tip of your iron for opening the seam.
3. Sleeve Pressing
You need to press a close seam towards the back. If you place the left sleeve on the pressing board, then press the seam facing towards the right side and vise versa. For pressing the sleeve cap you may need tailors ham. Tailors ham is a small tight pillow used for pressing darts, sleeves. But as this is the beginning of your journey you may not spend extra money here and there, Trust me! It’s a lot of types of equipment you can’t buy at a time or not suggested even. Buy as per requirement. Until you are ready for selling your clothes, I don’t think you need all those equipment.
4. Darts
Pressing direction depends on the style of the dart. You need to remember two main things here. a. Vertical darts need to press the facing center. b. Horizontal darts need to press downwards.
5. Hems
After you mark the hem allowance fold accordingly the mark. Now pin the hem and start pressing as you fold your other hand along with the marking.
6. Collars
Collars are supposed to look crisp. First press the collar points and remove excess fabrics from every angle, then press the points again. You can use a Point Presser.
7. Facing
You need to eliminate the bulk fabrics as much as possible. So first trim the seams. When you are making a facing keep these important things in your mind. Facing should be cut on the same grain as the main garment. So they look identical from each side. You can use the same or lighter fabric for lining but it never should be heavier than the main fabric. Before stitching the facing finish the edges. then press the seam along with the newly stitched line.
Now here are three bonus TIPS! Who does not love free tips right?
8. Use Pressing Cloth
It is always good to have multiple pressing clothes. I never throw placing clothes until they became unuseful. I pleat them over another. Using pressing cloth prevents unwanted marking on clothes. Take any muslin cloth and use it as it is.
9. Use Steam
Do you remember, we do Press. Not Iron. So fill your iron with water, and use steam according to the fabric. Some say the more steam the better. I can’t agree that much, using steam is highly depends on the material. For that see THIS ARTICLE.
10 Press on the Wrong Side
That’s true. Not just I press on the wrong side, sometimes I fold my clothes inside out. For example white clothes, finer materials. Of course, you can’t do that because you are making clothes for customers and you need to fold them in the right way. But you can press the wrong sides while making the garment whenever it is possible. It reduces the chances of unwanted marks, scratches, or any kind of damage. But before that know the fabric type.
That's all for today! I hope you liked it (❁´◡`❁)
