We’re going to learn
  • Pattern informations
  • Identification of Patterns with different ease amounts
  • Process of preparing patterns

Pattern Details and Information

Seam Allowance, Stitching, Cloth
Seam Allowance, Stitching, Cloth

You already know what is seam allowance in PATTERN TERMINOLOGIES. But today we will know the significance of seam allowance. Seam allowance is the area between the sewing line and the edge of the cloth. It varies from straight to curved area and also if any special features are added to the garment. It holds two layers of fabrics together and is made by drawing measurement sets on the outline of the pattern.

Guidelines for Seam Allowances

  1. For all straight seams give a standard seam allowence of 15 cm.
  2. For Seam allowences in curvy areas like armhole, neckline and waist give 1cm seam allowence.
  3. Hem allowance may vary from 0.5 cm ti 6 cm. It depends on the style and look.
  4. On straight skirts, hem is 4-6 cm. And ofcourse broader hem holds more weight and provide better stability. For flared, gathered or circular skirts hem allowence is about 0. cm.
  5. For lehengas which are in generally made of heavy fabrics the hemline needs to be done with separate facing so that it can hold more weight and provide better stability. A seam allowance of 1 cm is required.
  6. For zipper seam allowences can be 2-2.5 cm depending on thickness of the fabric and it is usually more than standard seam allowence.
  7. For, Plain Seam, French Seam, Mock French Seam, Welt Seam, seam allowance of 1 is enough.

Standard Seam allowances for bodice

  • Neckline: 0.5cm
  • Shoulder line: 1 cm
  • Armhole: 1cm
  • Side seam: 2.5cm
  • Hem line: 2cm

Standard Seam allowances for Skirts

  • Side seam: 1.5cm
  • Hem: 4cm
  • Waistline: 1cm
  • Center Back seam with a zipper opening: 2cm

Standard Seam allowances for Sleeves

  • Sleeve Cap: 1cm
  • Side seam: 2.5cm
  • Hem line: 2cm

Truing of Seam Allowence

Truing is the process of smoothing and shaping angular and curves on a seam to create a pleasant transition. After drawing seam allowances, now, it needs to be true. We need to true a side-seam, shoulder seam, waist seam allowances. To true a side seam, fold the seam allowance and run the tracing wheel at the armhole curve. To true a shoulder seam, fold the seam allowance and run the tracing wheel at the neckline and armholes for the same curves. To true a waistline and hemline fold the side seam allowances.

Notches

Notches are the V-shaped cuts in an outline of a block to match the patterns with the corresponding seams. It can define the width of seam allowance or can be used as markers with seams to make sure that two pieces of fabric must come together after sewing. To match various patterns together in garments the notches are given called Balance notches. These are marked on longer side seams, like in a dress where it is important to match the front and backside seams. Balance notches are so important to join various boards of the garment at the right places. Additional notches can be given at waist and hip levels.

Notches are also very important to make drill holes at the dart points apart from the seam allowance. Drill holes can be done through an AWL (30 USEFULL TOOLS OF PATTERN MAKING).

Documentation Sheet

It is a sheet that indicates all the design and stitching details in a very small area. These are the following details you need to write in a documentation sheet.

  1. Your name
  2. Season you are making for. We talked about FASHION SEASONS HERE.
  3. Sketches of the garments with front and back view.
  4. Sample the fabrics in those particular colors.
  5. Name and construction of the fabric.
  6. Sapmle of accessories and trims with their placements in the garment.
  7. Measurements of the ready garment.
  8. Openings of the garment.
  9. Size of Stich.
  10. Seams to be used.

Grading

Grading is the systematic increase or decrease of the pattern size in a garment. Let assume you have created a pattern in large size and you want to make that same pattern in medium and small size. By a systematic method, you can do that. The purpose of Grading is to develop a range of sizes with maintaining its shape, fittings, balance, proportion, etc.

Don’t worry even if you are a beginner, grading can be done with practice. But remember wrong grading can stop production. Grading can be done in two ways.

1. THE SINGLE SIZE GRADe

Also, known as Track Grading, increments are applied to different patterns by moving the base pattern pieces along with the predetermined track.

2. MULTI-SIZE Size Grade

This is also called nested or stacked grading. The superimposing {place or lay one thing over another, typically so that both are still evident (*Collected from HERE)} in a way so that the progression of increase will be clearly visible.

That's all for today! I hope you liked it, leaving a comment will encourage me to write moreΒ (❁´◑`❁)
Read more on PATTERNS!
THE HISTORY OF PATTERN MAKING
METHODS OF PATTERN MAKING
BASIC PATTERN MAKING TERMINOLOGIES
PATTERN MAKING 30 USEFULL TOOLS
BODY MEASUREMENTS GUIDELINES AND PROCESS
SIZE CHARTS - WOMEN STANDARD BODY MEASUREMENTS
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